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Example: Daniel Woods is 5 8 (68 in or 172.7 cm) with a 72-inch (182.9 cm) wingspan. Commenting is closed on this page, though you can read some previous comments below which may answer some of your questions. As one study put it, the variables found to explain most variance in sport climbing ability are trainable.. If these averages held true across a larger sample of pro climbers, they would suggest that a positive ape index is an advantage in climbing at a high level. The table below categorizes the vertical jump height in centimeters and inches for adult men and women. However, there are a few notable exceptions: And Adam Ondra, arguably the greatest living climber, has a +0.4 inch (+1 cm) ape index. Theyre things like low body fat percentage and grip strength to body mass ratio variables you can directly affect through training. Its commonly believed that a positive ape index (or an ape index ratio greater than 1) is good for rock climbing. Thats exceedingly unremarkable.

The expected results may be affected by these test variations - these norms should be used as just a guide, and are based on the vertical jump off two legs, no run-up, no pause, and with full arm movements. document.write(" CITE THIS PAGE: "+ author + ", "" + document.title + "." Topend Sports Website, "+ published + ", "+ url + ", Accessed " + md.getDate()+" " + months[md.getMonth()] + " " + md.getFullYear()); Powerlifting Workouts - Training Journals, Post Your Pictures and Introduce Yourself. I'm 5'9" with a wingspan of 6'1" and my shoulders and neck are normal, not high or low, but my shoulders wide and my standing reach is 7'7". Youre stuck with what youve got. To keep up with the latest in sport science and this website, subscribe to our newsletter. The advantage of expressing your ape index as a ratio is that it will stay the same regardless of whether you calculate it using inches or centimeters. If you reopen a four year old thread, you could at least reopen one that wasn't a pointless question started by drunk guy.. A good dream is always better than a bad reality. I know hes not a climber but Manute Bol (an ex-NBA player) had an ape index of 1.121 or +28cm The ape index is a measurement of how your wingspan (aka arm span) compares to your height. var months = new Array ("January","February","March","April","May","June","July","August","September","October","November","December") Height = 69 inches I havent found any data to back up this claim.). (Well, at least thats how it would seem. Bottom line: This is the most common way climbers express their ape index. Ever wonder what your ape index is? Example: Daniel Woods, arguably the greatest boulderer of all time, is 5 8 (68 in) with a 72-inch wingspan. [E]lite climbers usually possess an index higher than 1.00 but it was not proven that the ape index correlates with climbing performance.. Sharmas is located near the top right and appears to read 2. Grahams is located near the top left in blue and appears to read 4. Hills is located at the very bottom and appears to read 0., Beginners Guide to Indoor Climbing: How to Get Started, We Took the Portable Pizza Pouch Out on a Day Hike, Osprey Eja 48 vs 58: Pack Comparison (2022), Bouldering Training 101: The Complete Guide, Maryland Climbing & Bouldering Gyms: The Complete List, Mississippi Climbing & Bouldering Gyms: The Complete List. Remember that the next time you find yourself using your -2 ape index as an excuse for why youre not climbing as hard as youd like. Using this method, the typical ape index is 0. idea of what is a good score. I'm half asian with a long neck and short arms, giving me a paltry 7'4 reach at almost 5'11. A number greater than one means your wingspan is greater than your height, and a number less than one means your height is greater than your wingspan. Recall that an ape index ratio of 1 is considered typical. It seems that on average elite climbers have higher ape indices than the general population. How to Cite. Its believed that most peoples wingspan is equivalent to their height, meaning most people have a neutral ape index or, put another way, an ape index ratio of 1. He was the tallest NBA player ever.

var md = new Date(document.lastModified) Find out with our ape index calculator! This ranking scale var months = new Array ("January","February","March","April","May","June","July", Put simply, they tend to have long arms for their height. There are many variations and technique for conducting this test, for a summary see direct and indirect vertical jump measurement methods. We have over 400 fitness tests listed, so it's not easy to choose the best one to use. , Climber = Jose Campos As an Amazon Associate 99Boulders LLC earns from qualifying purchases. Keep in mind that our sample is quite small. A negative ape index is rarely an asset.. A lot of them are plagued by the issue of small sample sizes, but in mostof them, on average the climbers have ape index ratios greater than 1. It seems to make intuitive sense: the longer your arms, the greater your reach advantage relative to other climbers your height. Whether or not a high ape index is good for climbing, you cant change yours. Ape Index 2 = 5+. Indeed, Matt Samet, editor of Climbing Magazine, writes in his book The Climbing Dictionary: A positive ape index, in which your wingspan exceeds your height, is a bonus. Note: If you know the ape index of a famous climber not listed here, put it in the comments below along with the source and well add it to the list! Home > Fitness Testing > Tests > Speed & Power > Vertical Jump > Norms. See also a selection of vertical jump athlete test results, and also details about converting jump height You should consider the validity, reliability, costs and ease of use for each test. Its easy to see why climbers by and large believe this. To calculate the difference you simply subtract his height from his wingspan: In centimeters: 182.9 cm 172.7 cm = 10.2 cm. 1997-2022 Topend Sports Network However, while researching for this article I got curious about whether there was any data backing up this belief. "August","September","October","November","December") He was 231cm tall with a 259cm wingspan. I'm hoping to shed off some pounds and replace some with muscle starting this year. Use our testing guide to conducting, recording, and interpreting fitness tests. Any questions, please ask or search for your answer. The downside to this method is that, unless its 0, your ape index changes depending on whether youre using inches or centimeters. Bottom line: The typical ape index ratio is 1. it all depends. Ape Index 1 = 1.072 Though on average elite climbers appear to have high ape indices, when researchers have compared ape index to climbing performance they have often struggled to find a positive correlation. We are also on facebook and twitter. document.write("Page last modified: "+ md.getDate()+" " + months[md.getMonth()] is based on my observations, and will give a general I'm 5'11" with a wingspan of 6'3" and a standing reach of 7' 8 1/2". I found a couple suggestions on internet forums and one on the ape index Wikipedia entry that certain exercises can improve your ape index over time. The ape index is measured because in sports like rock climbing, swimming, boxing, and basketball its considered an advantage to have long arms for your height. Fortunately, things that are under your control have been shown to correlate positively with climbing ability.

Compare your ape index with some of the worlds greatest climbers: The handful of professional climbers in the table above have, on average, a positive ape index. There are two ways to calculate your ape index: divide your wingspan by your height or subtract your height from your wingspan. When expressed as the difference between wingspan and height, Woods has a +4 ape index in inches, or a +10.2 ape index in centimeters. To calculate his ape index as a ratio you divide his wingspan by his height: When expressed as a ratio, Woods has an ape index of 1.06. + " " + md.getFullYear()); Osiris The Breaker Of Wills Arliah (2016). is where I found the reported ape indices of Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, and Lynn Hill. The range is really big. Copyright 2022 99Boulders LLC. The Vertical Jump test is a very common test for measuring explosive leg power. things like broad shoulders and long torsos really make a difference on this. Some studies have measured the ape indices of elite climbers. to power or work scores. So I decided to do a bit of digging. Wingspan = 74 inches var md = new Date()